Category Archives: Castles

Floralia Brussels 2013

Castles, Parks & Gardens 3 Comments

FloraliaBrussels-972Readers of Discovering Belgium will know that every year I promote Floralia Brussels and strongly suggest that for people living in Belgium it’s much more environmentally-friendly to visit this flower show than drive the 3 hours to the more famous Keukenhof in the Netherlands. This year it’s the 10th edition of Floralia Brussels, which is held on the grounds and in the greenhouses of the Castle of Groot-Bijgaarden between April 5 to May 12, 2013. Over one and a half million tulips, hyacinths, daffodils and grape hyacinths have been planted under the old trees of the 14-hectare park, providing a wonderful display. It includes 400 varieties of tulips, some of which have not yet received a name.

In addition, you will discover an exhibition of floral arrangements and decorative plants in the greenhouses, incorporating more than 10,000 flowers from various flower markets throughout Europe. There’s also an orchid show in the chapel, a surprise in the tower, and bulbs can be purchased at the entrance to the castle.

Entrance costs 12 EUR for adults, 5 EUR for children (6-14). It’s open every day from 10 am until 6 pm. Address is Castle of Groot-Bijgaarden, Is. Van Beverenstraat 5, 1702 Groot-Bijgaarden

Check out this post for some lovely photos of last year’s exhibition.

How to get there:

The easiest is probably to take the train to Groot-Bijgaarden station and then walk up Brusselsstraat to Isidoor Van Beverenstraat where the castle is. It’s a distance of about 800 metres which should take you about 10 minutes.

Alternatively take bus 136 from Brussels Zuid and get off at Groot-Bijgaarden Kerk and walk about 200 metres. Here’s a bus 136 timetable: De Lijn 136

Discovering Durbuy

Castles, Guest blogger, Parks & Gardens, Small Towns, Wallonia 1 Comment

Topiary park DurbuyGuest blogger Masha reports …

Known as the smallest town in the world, Durbuy is also one of the prettiest. Due to its picturesque location on the banks of the Ourthe River, in the Belgian province of Luxemburg, the town became a pleasant holiday resort. This small but at the same time enchanting place has a lot to offer to visitors. Ironically, the smallest town on earth has the largest topiary park with more than 30,000 square feet of impressive animal and human forms. For those of you who prefer taking pictures, there is an excellent spot at the top of the cliff with a magnificent view over the town and the River Ourthe.

Continue reading →

Coloma Rose Garden, Sint-Pieters-Leeuw

Castles, Flanders, Museums, Parks & Gardens 1 Comment

Last Friday (July 15), the rain stopped raining and the sun started shining, so Liz and I quickly made arrangements to go out for the day with a couple of good friends. Our destination was the Coloma Rose Garden in Sint-Pieters-Leeuw. We were not disappointed. With its impressive displays of more than 3,000 varieties of roses from 26 countries, Coloma is one of the most extensive rose gardens in Europe. You can probably find every type of rose on the planet there: antique roses, the most recent hybrids, climbing roses, rambling roses and bush roses. Continue reading →

Beauvoorde Castle near Veurne

Castles, Crafts, Flanders, Museums, Villages 2 Comments

Beauvoorde Castle - looking 200 years older than it actually is

From the outside, Beauvoorde Castleappears to be a perfect example of a 17th century castle. But don’t be deceived. It was actually created in the late 19th century through the romantic vision of one man. In 1875, wealthy nobleman Arthur Merghelynck fell in love with a ruined castle in the tiny village of Wulveringem, West Flanders. He was attracted by its picturesque setting, but also by its potential to fulfil his grand scheme.

Merghelynck was an incurable romantic who resented the increasing industrialisation of Flanders. He wanted to cherish the atmosphere, style and romance of the past, and in particular the 17th century. In the remains of Beauvoorde Castle he saw the possibility to realise his dream. Continue reading →

Annevoie Gardens

Castles, Parks & Gardens, Rivers & Canals, Wallonia Leave a comment

My first thought on entering Annevoie Gardens was “I wonder how many water pumps are used here?” You’d probably ask the same question, as the gardens are filled with fountains, jets and cascades, which surely – you would think – need  numerous heavy-duty, submersible pumps? However, to my surprise, I discovered that everything works entirely naturally, without any mechanical or electrical intervention.

Beautiful - and all without a single electric pump!

The gardens’ designer, Charles-Alexis de Montpellier, a local iron merchant, clearly knew what he was doing when he started creating Annevoie Gardens in 1758. His first task was to dig a 400-metre-long canal at the highest point of his 28-hectare grounds, and fill it with water from the nearby Fonteny spring. After that he constructed a complex network of inter-connecting underground channels running from the canal. It was then a “simple” matter of excavating about twenty pools and ponds and adorning them with over fifty fountains, cascades and waterfalls. It took him nearly twenty years to finish, but by 1776 Annevoie Gardens was complete, and has remained functional ever since. And that’s no exaggeration – the water has been flowing non-stop for 230 years and continues throughout the year, even in the rare occurrence of a dry Belgian summer. Continue reading →

Exploring the Molignée Valley

Ardennes, Castles, Country Walks, Forests, Rivers & Canals, Wallonia Leave a comment

A day in the Molignée Valley, south of Namur, could incorporate a country walk, a visit to the historic ruins of Montaigle Castle, a tour of the Abbey of Maredsous, a visit to a snail farm, and a trip on a rail-bike.

To reach the Molignée Valley, take the E411 until junction 19, and then the N937 through Purnode to Yvoir. Here you can stop at the tourist office and pick up the relevant maps and information.

There are numerous walks through the Molignée Valley. One of my favourites starts from the car park just past the Relais de Montaigle (ideal for an early snack) by the 7 km sign on the N971. The car park is marked Montaigle Castle. It takes you through forests, meadows, along the River Flavion and to the impressive ruins of Montaigle Castle, which you can visit for a small fee (4 EUR). Continue reading →

FLORALIA BRUSSELS

Castles, Guest blogger, Parks & Gardens 1 Comment

For Floralia Brussels 2013: click here.

Guest blogger: Martine Kinzinger.

“FLORALIA BRUSSELS” is the spring flower show held on the grounds and in the greenhouses of the Castle of Groot-Bijgaarden. It’s the 8th edition of this annual event. Over one and a half million tulips, hyacinths, daffodils and grape hyacinths have been planted under the old trees of the 14-hectare park of the castle, as well as 400 varieties of tulips.

You will discover a breathtaking exhibition of floral arrangements and decorative plants in the greenhouses. More than 10,000 flowers from various flower markets in Europe are brought in each week. The chapel and the tower are also decked out with wonderful flower arrangements. Tulips, orchids and other bulbs can be purchased at the entrance to the castle.

This is a great day out for the whole family.“FLORALIA BRUSSELS” is open from April 6th until May 6th 2012, every day from 10:00 until 18:00. Tickets cost €10 for adults, € 5 for children (6-14). More details at www.floralia-brussels.be.

Horst Castle near Aarschot

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Located in the Winge valley to the east of Leuven, Horst Castle has remained largely untouched since the middle of the 17th century.

To get the most out of a visit to Horst Castle, you should know what not to expect. There are no works of art hanging from the walls; no ancient tapestries in the bedrooms. The living rooms are empty of tables and chairs; the kitchen devoid of pots and pans. In fact, Horst Castle is empty and unlived in, and has been for over three hundred years. And that’s precisely why it’s worth visiting. Continue reading →

Trail of the unexpected – Rixensart

Castles, Country Walks, Forests, Wallonia 1 Comment

The Château of Rixensart dates from 1631 and is occupied by the Prince of Merode

For me, one  enjoyable aspect of walking in the countryside is the possibility of the unexpected. This walk, which starts from the Château de Rixensart, certainly gave me a few surprises.

With your back to the castle, turn left, walk up the road, take the first left into 1ère Avenue and walk through Beau Site. On the Square de la Resistance, just stand back and admire the five magnificent oak trees.

Continue along Avenue de la Resistance until the main road, turn left and follow the track that runs alongside house no.11. On your left is the Bois de Rixensart; on your right is the Bois de Limal. I had a big surprise here; a black woodpecker leisurely flew overhead. Black woodpeckers are more likely to be seen in the Ardennes than 100 metres from a busy road on the outskirts of Brussels.

Continue along this track (another surprise – so many wild strawberries) until a T-junction where a house is being built. Turn left and then take the left fork down into the woods. (If you want a longer walk, turn right and explore the lakes and reed beds in the Lasne valley).

Another unexpected sight will soon greet you: a World War Two bunker. Apparently this bunker was never used during the war. The closest it came to action was after liberation when British troops tested their anti-tank shells on it.

Just past the bunker, fork slightly right so that the open field is on your left. In the distance on your left you can see the château. On your right is an ancient orchard. Carry straight on and turn left along Avenue de la Rochefoucauld. Follow this winding road back to your starting point.

Cute little fellow!

For the kids – Look out for red squirrels in the woods. On the forest floor, search for the remains of pine cones that have been stripped by squirrels so they can reach the seeds. A single squirrel can eat the seeds from 20,000 cones in a year. Squirrels can also tell whether nuts are good or bad by shaking them.

Justus Lipsius walk – Overijse

Castles, Country Walks, Flanders, Museums, Small Towns Leave a comment

The 9 km Justus Lipsius walk around Overijse is not recommended for young children (or for prams or buggies) but for those who persevere with its gradients and occasionally rough terrain, it’s well worth the effort. It affords stunning views over Overijse and Wavre and leads you alongside some gems of old buildings.

The walk finishes with this view of Overijse

The walk starts and ends at the Justus Lipsiusplein in Overijse, where you can park. The 344 bus goes to Overijse from Brussels Schuman. The circular route is well signposted, with red and white signposts at all major junctions. It’s named after the Belgian humanist who was born in Overijse in 1547. Justus Lipsius has been described as the greatest Renaissance scholar of the Low Countries after Erasmus. His most telling contribution was a series of works designed to revive ancient Stoicism in a form that would be compatible with Christianity.

The walk introduces you to good views of the Kasteel van Ijse and Kasteel Terdek, as well as two huge farmhouses, the Hof te Reutebeek and the Hof ter Geiten, although the latter is admittedly in a shameful state.

The crested tit is an occasional winter visitor to gardens

In a stand of Scots pine trees I watched a pair of crested tits feeding. In my native UK these delightful birds are rarities, as they are confined to ancient pine forests in the north of Scotland. Yet in Belgium they are fairly common; they even visit my garden and feed on the bird table. This disagrees with the latest and best bird guide available which states categorically that the crested tit “does not visit bird tables.” Obviously the individuals in my garden have not read the book.

The route brings you back to Overijse via the sports centre, where you can burn off any remaining energy on the outdoor Fit-O-Meter. A more realistic suggestion is to visit the Grape Museum on the Justus Lipsiusplein, which will bring you up to date with the history and present status of grape-growing in Overijse.

For the kids – In autumn, see how many different nuts and berries you can collect. I came across acorns, horse chestnuts (conkers), sweet chestnuts, hazel nuts and beech mast, as well as rose hips, blackberries and blackthorn berries (sloes). The website http://www.hainaultforest.co.uk has a useful section on autumn fruits and nuts to help you identify what you bring home.

Doode Bemde, Neerijse

Castles, Country Walks, Flanders, Rivers & Canals Leave a comment

The Doode Bemde is one of the most important nature reserves along the Dijle, yet is easily accessible

The Doode Bemde nature reserve outside Neerijse is bordered by the Rivers Dijle and Ijse and can be reached by the 344 bus from Brussels’ Schumann roundabout. If you are driving, you can park by the Sint-Pieters-en-Paulus church. The 5.5 km Doode Bemde walk starts at the church, takes you into the farmland to the north of the village and then through the reserve itself.

Alongside both rivers, you can’t miss the huge leaves of the butterbur plant, which can measure up to one metre in diameter. Butterbur is so named because its leaves were used to wrap butter to keep it cool. It had other uses, too. The English horticulturist Henry Lyte, who published his “Niewe Herball’ in 1578, describes it as ‘a soveraigne medicine against the plague’. In Germany it’s called “pestwurz” (“plague root”).

I recently joined a group of Belgian biologists on a beaver expedition to this area. Yes, beavers are alive and kicking in Belgium, having been re-introduced in 2000. We didn’t see any, as they tend to hide during the day, but we saw plenty of evidence, including a couple of majestic dams.

They were brought back for two reasons. They used to live here until they were hunted out of existence (the last Flemish beaver was shot in 1848). And they are good for the environment, keeping waterside vegetation levels down, creating open spaces where other mammals and birds can live. Their channels and dams act as buffers against the effects of flash floods.

The walk leads you back to your starting point via the Kasteel van Neerijse, which has had a chameleon-like life. Originally constructed in 1735 by Baron Charles Joseph d’Overschie, a Dutch brewer, it was used as a hunting pavilion. Later that century his son Jean-Albert undertook an extensive expansion of the castle and the grounds and it became the main residence of the Overschie family, who ruled the village of Neerijse for over a century.

In the early 20th century the castle was leased to a religious order. In 1935, it left the Overschie family and was rented to a company that ran a clinic within the grounds. In the 80s, the castle was sold once again and transformed into a hotel. Its latest evolution sees its conversion into luxury apartments.

Beaver damage might look serious, but beavers play a key role in improving riverside ecosystems

For the kids – Animal-tracking is detective work and the mud along the banks of the Ijse and Dijle make excellent places to look for tracks of beavers and other animals such as water voles. Look for signs such as gnawed branches, droppings, tunnels through long grass, and mud slides into the river. The Scottish Beavers Network gives a lot of useful info on beavers.

The inclined plane at Ronquieres

Castles, Country Walks, Cycling, Rivers & Canals, Wallonia Leave a comment

The Réseau Autonome de Voies Lentes (RAVeL), or as its website quaintly translates it, the Autonomous Network of Slow Ways, was established in 1995. This network of old canal embankments and disused railway tracks winds through much of Wallonia. Currently, it extends to over 1000 km of pathways. It’s perfect for cyclists as well as walkers, and the majority of the parts I have walked along are also fine for children’s buggies.

The Ancient Canal between Arquennes to Ronquieres is picturesque

Picking just one segment is virtually impossible, but I am particularly fond of the Arquennes-Ronquières stretch, because it is so picturesque. Arquennes can be reached from junction 19 of the E19, or by bus from Nivelles railway station. The walk follows the Charleroi-Brussels canal; not the broad, straight and sterile one, but the narrow, meandering and interesting Ancient Canal that was first opened in 1862.

Its 12 locks are now dysfunctional – the canal long since ceased to be navigable – but the lock-keepers’ houses are all inhabited and it’s fascinating to see how their occupants have modernized the buildings while maintaining their original appearance. For example, every one still has its own sign proudly mounted on the outside wall indicating the lock number (Ecluse no. 25 and so on).

Running alongside the canal is the River Samme. The whole area is heavily wooded and includes the nature reserve of Ronquières. Look out for kingfishers, great crested grebes, and teal, which are small ducks with cute yellow bottoms and beautiful green eye stripes.

Rounding one bend in the canal brings you face to face with the imposing Château de la Rocq. This fairytale castle was built in 1390 by Eustache de Bousies, Lord of Feluy, to honour his son Wautier, who was a renowned warrior. The 30-hectare estate is now a superb setting for business meetings, wedding receptions and garden parties.

The inclined plane at Ronquieres has to be seen to be believed

Upon reaching Ronquières, if you still have the energy (soon replenished after half an hour in La Tour Glacée café), a visit to the inclined plane is a real eye-opener. It’s a boat lift; the boat floats in what is best described as a gigantic bathtub, which then rolls up a set of rails. It actually superseded the old locks that you have just passed on the Ancient Canal. The control tower has a visitor centre with an audiovisual presentation that explains the inclined plane’s design, workings and use.

Look out for witches' brooms!

For the kids – In the autumn, look out for witches’ brooms! No, they’re not leftovers from Halloween; witches’ brooms are actually abnormally dense growths of small twigs. From a distance they are supposed to look like something a witch would mount and fly away on, although to me they look more like bird’s nests. They are caused by the witches’ broom fungus, which enters the tree and stimulates extra growth, on which it then feeds. So it’s nothing to do with witches. Or is it? According to legend, a tree that has one, has been flown over by a witch …

Domaine Solvay, La Hulpe

Castles, Country Walks, Forests, Parks & Gardens, Wallonia 12 Comments

Domaine Solvay has it all: a beautiful park, mysterious forests, hidden valleys, extensive lakes, a fascinating château and even a farmhouse with an art collection. And, on warmer days anyway, the inevitable vans selling waffles and ice-creams. If travelling by car, you can park outside the gates on the Chaussée de Bruxelles, just north of the village of La Hulpe. By public transport, bus 366 goes from Ixelles to Court St.Etienne; get off at Etangs Solvay.

The Château de La Hulpe was built in 1842

The centrepiece is the Château de La Hulpe, which looks like it’s been airlifted in from the Loire Valley, but was actually built here by the Marquis of Béthune in 1842. At the end of the 19th century, wealthy Belgian industrialist Ernest Solvay acquired the property. In 1968 the Solvay family donated the castle and park to the Belgian government, although only the grounds, not the castle itself, are accessible to the public.

But what grounds! Enjoy the rolling lawns and the views over the lakes before heading into the forest. Here, native beech, oak and birch mingle with more exotic species like ginkgo, sequoia and the black locust tree, many of which are helpfully labelled for ease of identification.

Worth checking out are the 36-meter high Obelisk and the Belvedere. The latter is reached by walking up 140 steps; a task I underwent at my guidebook’s promise of the breathtaking view at the top. Unfortunately, these words were penned a long time ago. Today, the trees obscure the view completely, but I’m sure the exercise did me good.

Discover the works of Belgian artist and sculptor Jean-Michel Folon

If you take a circular walk around the grounds, halfway around you will come across the Ferme du Château de La Hulpe. It ceased to be a working farm in 1971 and now houses 300 works of the Belgian painter and sculptor Jean-Michel Folon, who died in October 2005. Folon lived nearby as a child, and was a frequent visitor to the park, which he described as “the garden with the thousand rhododendrons.”

For the kids – Just listen! In the forest, switch off your mobile phone, unplug your iPod, and listen to the sounds of nature. At first you will hear nothing, but keep listening – it takes a while for your ears to tune in. You will become aware of the louder sounds first: ducks, crows, a dog maybe. Keep concentrating and you will pick up the fainter sounds: great tits squabbling in the bushes, a woodpecker tapping for insects. Finally, if you can pick out the goldcrest’s high-pitched call, or a shrew squeaking in the leaves, you will have done very well indeed.

(First published in The Bulletin, May 2006)

Walking in the Condroz

Ardennes, Castles, Country Walks, Forests, Villages, Wallonia Leave a comment

The Condroz is a succession of valleys hollowed out of the limestone

The Condroz is the plateau in the lower Ardennes that is located between the valleys of the Meuse and the Ourthe. Describing it merely as a plateau fails to do it justice however. It’s a succession of beautiful, verdant valleys and wooded hills. What’s more, its villages are remarkable for the opulence of their houses, farms, castles and churches. It’s also a wonderful place to go hiking.

You can start from Ciney, the capital of the Condroz, or the neighbouring towns of Hamois, Havelange or Somme-Leuze. Each has well-stocked tourist offices with plenty of walking guidebooks and maps. I was particularly impressed by the full-colour booklet entitled Balades et vous, which briefly describes 12 walks in the central Condroz region known as the Vallées des Saveurs – the Valley of Tastes – so called due to its rich variety of delicious regional products.

Although the book stretches to 36 pages, you don’t have to take the complete publication with you. Each walk is on a single-page map which can be easily removed. The maps are so good and the routes so well signposted that once you have decided on which one to follow, it’s just a case of finding the start and off you go.

I chose the 8.3 km Le berceau du Bocq, which starts from the village of Scy and follows a circular path to Mohiville and back. It’s a lovely walk, and even has an excellently located picnic table exactly halfway along the route, next to the Maya fountain in Mohiville. The route also takes you alongside the imposing Chateau de Ry, which dates back to 1598 and harks back to the former agricultural riches of the region. These days it hosts weddings and receptions.

The 12 walks in Balades et vous will certainly keep you busy in the central part of the Condroz for quite a while, but don’t forget that the northern Condroz is equally interesting. Spending some time in and around Modave, for example, is definitely worth it. You could explore the village itself or stroll along the picturesque River Hoyoux, which flows into the Meuse in Hoy. You could take a tour of the 17th century Modave castle, which is perched on a rock 60 metres above the river. You could even make a weekend of it and explore the surrounding region, as there are many fascinating places to visit nearby, including an abbey, an early water filtration tower and two Roman ruins.

An excellent little walk of 7.5 km starts from Modave Castle. After skirting the grounds of the castle, the route takes you into the wide valley of the River Hoyoux, through the darkest of coniferous forests, up onto open farmland, and through the tiny hamlet of Survillers.

As a nature-lover I was greatly impressed by the flora and fauna of the Hoyoux river valley. Reed warblers and whitethroats were singing their hearts out; swallows and swifts were swooping over the meadows; and red kites and buzzards were soaring on the thermals. On the ground, lime-loving plants were abundant: crosswort, white campion, salad burnet, tower mustard, the strangely named Nottingham catchfly and the poisonous swallow-wort.

Further along the route, literally in the middle of nowhere, is a reminder of tragedy: a simple stone memorial bearing the names of five members of the RAF’s 77 Squadron, who were shot down here in the Second World War.

Modave Castle is situated on a rock, and some sections date back to the 13th century

Back at your starting point at Modave Castle you can eat in the cellar restaurant, which should rejuvenate you for a tour of the castle itself and its 20 richly furnished rooms. You can also see a model of a hydraulic water wheel invented by a local carpenter in 1667. If you still have energy, you can stroll around the gardens, or walk into the village where you can enjoy an evening drink outside the Hôtel des Touristes.

(First published in The Bulletin, July 2006)